Białowieża is the last substantial fragment of the lowland primeval forest that once covered the European plain, straddling the Polish-Belarusian border. It survived because from the fifteenth century it was a royal and later imperial hunting ground whose keepers let nobody in. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site on both sides of the border.
The strict reserve
The core of the national park can be entered only with a licensed guide, in small groups, on a set route. The difference from ordinary forest is obvious within metres: oaks several centuries old, dead trunks left to decompose and five distinct vegetation layers. More than 12,000 animal species live here, including 25 species of bat and nine of woodpecker.
Bison
The European bison became extinct in the wild in 1919, when the last animal in the forest was shot. The species was rebuilt from just over fifty individuals in zoos, and the first release back into the forest took place in 1952. Around eight hundred now live wild on the Polish side. Winter, when they come to feeding sites, gives the best chance of a sighting; the show reserve has them year round.
The dispute
Increased logging in 2016 and 2017, justified as a response to a bark beetle outbreak, produced protests, blockades and a European Court of Justice ruling that Poland had broken EU law. The argument over how much of the forest should be under strict protection continues. A border wall built on the eastern boundary also cuts habitats and obstructs animal movement.
Biebrza
A hundred kilometres north lies Biebrza National Park, the largest in Poland, protecting the best-preserved river valley peatlands in central Europe. The spring floods draw ruff, aquatic warbler, greater spotted eagle, cranes and storks. It is one of the most important birding sites on the continent and in April ornithologists arrive from across Europe. Elk are seen regularly.
Narew and Podlasie
Narew National Park is called the Polish Amazon for its multi-channel river. Around it is Podlasie: villages of wooden architecture, Orthodox churches, Tatar mosques at Kruszyniany and Bohoniki, and a cuisine unlike the rest of the country.
Practicalities
Białowieża is four hours by road from Warsaw. Guides must be booked ahead. The area lies in a border zone where access restrictions have been imposed periodically; check current rules before travelling.